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Birds pooping on my terrace

Question
I just moved into a 9th floor apt w/an open terrace. Pigeons fly onto my terrace & poop all over. I scrubbed the poop and hung bags from the banister. At first it kept the birds away but now they just fly around it. What can i put up to keep them away.

 

Answer
There are many techniques that can help in your specific situation. I would recommend consulting Bird-X Bird Control. You are looking for a long time solution so you will not mind spending more money. There are many techniques that can help in your specific situation.

Are the pigeons spending the night somewhere above the deck? Do they visit during the mid-afternoon or later mornings? Are the droppings all over the deck or repeatedly at specific spots
only?

Pigeons visiting, or even permanently living somewhere above your deck, belong to a larger membership called a flock. The flock flies together first thing in the morning, and then will return to roosting points before leaving for their daily outing. They may later loaf at your site during mid morning or mid afternoons, unless they are spending the night with you.

These observations will be important to relate to the folks at Bird-X.

My company does pigeon eviction; however, we do not sell devices; only use them where appropriate.

I do believe that I am sending you to the right place to discuss your pigeon dilemma. The thoughts that I have passed on to you, should help you to be more prepared to engage Bird-X's help.

Best wishes Leslie,

George Manning
Consulting Entomologist
www.pestproblemssolved.com

Birds pooping on my terrace

Question
I just moved into a 9th floor apt w/an open terrace. Pigeons fly onto my terrace & poop all over. I scrubbed the poop and hung bags from the banister. At first it kept the birds away but now they just fly around it. What can i put up to keep them away.

Answer
There are many techniques that can help in your specific situation. I would recommend consulting Bird-X Bird Control. You are looking for a long time solution so you will not mind spending more money. There are many techniques that can help in your specific situation.

Are the pigeons spending the night somewhere above the deck? Do they visit during the mid-afternoon or later mornings? Are the droppings all over the deck or repeatedly at specific spots
only?

Pigeons visiting, or even permanently living somewhere above your deck, belong to a larger membership called a flock. The flock flies together first thing in the morning, and then will return to roosting points before leaving for their daily outing. They may later loaf at your site during mid morning or mid afternoons, unless they are spending the night with you.

These observations will be important to relate to the folks at Bird-X.

My company does pigeon eviction; however, we do not sell devices; only use them where appropriate.

I do believe that I am sending you to the right place to discuss your pigeon dilemma. The thoughts that I have passed on to you, should help you to be more prepared to engage Bird-X's help.

Best wishes Leslie,

George Manning
Consulting Entomologist
www.pestproblemssolved.com

 

animal droppings I live in central Texas and have noticed dropping on my porch that are about 1/2 inch long and has a white speck on one end. The diameter is smaller than a pencil. Any ideas as to what leaves this dropping? Thanks, Rob Droppings(feces,scat) are usually identifiable. There are scat keys available on the Internet that may narrow down your finding. Key points will be rough or smooth surface, blunt or pointed ends, average length of scat, coloration, granular content, hairy surfaces, round or flattened. You mentioned i/2 inch rounded with a pencil-like diameter. The white spot at one end may be individualistic. Find a key and you'll be closer to an identification. Possum may be the culprit but I can't make a certainty. Best wishes, George Manning Consulting Entomologist george@pestproblemssolved.com Pest Control Chicago

 

Tom


Animal ID


Under our enclosed deck there is a large collection of animal scat.  It is all gathered in the same area on top of a pool tarp lying on the ground.  The scat is round and about the size of trix cereal.  While watching TV at night we can here limited creature activity.  How can I determine who has moved in and is using this area for a bathroom?

I don't know Trix cereal.  If the droppings are about 3/8 to 5/8 of an inch in diameter, round and fibrous, you have several rabbits living below your deck.

If your deck is close to the ground, you can build out these animals.  Send me more information regarding soil to deck clearance, and maybe I can help.

Regards,

George Manning


Entomologist


---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------


QUESTION: Thanks Mr Manning,


The deck is enclosed with 5/4 panels that stop about 2" from the ground.  I had spread pea stone around the gap, however some sections have come undone.  I would welcome your recommendations.  By the way, this house is located in central MA and there have been foxes in the yard.  Perhaps they are scoping out the dinner living under the deck?

Tom--

Purchase galvanized wire lath.  Dig a perimeter trench around the deck at base of deck below the extension so that you have a one foot deep trench. Bend two lengths of wire.  The first should have a 6" length facing inward, its vertical side attached to deck.  The next length should be placed in same trench, the 6" right angle bend facing outwards.  the vertical wire attached to deck as per the first.  Back fill dirt or gravel to ground level.  Now cut a circular opening large enough to allow rabbit to exit.  You will see hair clinging to the wire edges indicating that the animals can come and go.  Once you know the exit is being used, install a cone shaped wire from the same material so that the smaller opening points outward.  Rabbits will force themselves outward but not be able to push their way in.

Regards,

George Manning

American Pest Solutions

Pest Control Chicago


 

Michelle


Chipmunks Under Concrete Porch


My concrete porch started cracking last summer (it sits on top of sand). I just saw a chipmunk come out of a space between my house and porch.  When I further looked around my porch I noticed other areas where there is sand coming out.  I also have an area where it looks like they have chewed on my aluminum siding where the house steps and porch come together (there is also a small hole). I am allergic to cats so that will not work. I don't really care to set a live trap. I do not want to set mouse traps. Can I use repellant or poison or fumigate?  What is the best way to get rid of them before they do more damage? 


Thanks!


Michelle
I

would really appreciate your help!
 


 

Answer: Michelle:

I would recommend using a large bait station placed at locations where chipmunks are most active.  place Contrac rodenticide within each station so that these animals can carry the bait to their burrows. They will probably carry more back then feed within the bait stations.  Your concern would be not letting poison be accessible to domestic pets or little children.  The chipmunks could drop bait along the way to their burrows, inadvertently made available to pets and small children.  Better if bait can be inserted within the chipmunk harborage.

Contrac, manufactured by Bell Laboratories, along with bait stations can be purchased from a pesticide supplier. Ask for EPA Greg.# 12455-69.

Permanent barrier work can be done using galvanized wire latching purchased from a building supplier, Home Depot, Maenads. Material should be cut to width of 18 inches, folded along its length to allow a 6 inch right angle bend.  Bury the wire so as to allow the 6 inch bend to face towards you as you bury it, keeping the wire against the structure invaded by these creatures.  Back fill with sand or original soil so as to allow only the coverage of the accessible surface. When the monks try to enter, they will not dig below the bend.  I they are still present within their harborage, they'll dig out but if out they won't be able to dig in.

There are additional thoughts that could be implemented but they wouldn't be easy to relate via this format.

Contact me again if you need additional help.

American Pest Solutions

Pest Control Chicago

 

Dead animal smell Question For the past week, we've had a horrible dead-animal smell centered around the closet next to my bedroom. I've taken everything out of the closet, drilled sniff holes, cut out drywall, and gone through a lot of the insulation in the attic with no luck. Finally, I gave up and called a professional. He said that he wouldn't want to come out today because it would be too hot in the attic (outside temp. about 75F but BOY was it a lot hotter in the attic) but that often the source of the smell can't be found if it's a mouse or baby squirrel in the walls or under the floor. The answer disappointed me, mostly because I thought that a pest control company would have some sort of wonderful techniques or equipment that would magically find the problem. So, did I just have some bad luck with a guy who didn't want a job right then or is it the case that he wouldn't be able to do much more than what I was already doing? Answer Ethyl mercaptan odors are released during the early stages after death of an animal. These are organic in nature. Because of this fact, there organic structures are carbon linked, and can be broken down with the addition of an ionizer. Radicals of oxygen, being highly reactive, will combine with carbon molecules, in so doing, will destroy the nasty aroma. Search for an inexpensive ozonator machine(ionizer). This unit will eliminate the condition. As regards your suspicion that the pest company was blowing you off---could be. Best wishes Carlo, George Manning Consulting Entomologist www.pestproblemssolved.com

 

Subject:  Frog and cat control


Question:  I live in a small townhouse with  a small front and back yard. I would like your help in getting rid of cats who defecate in my front flowerbed and frogs who burrow in the back and front yard.
 


Answer:  Frogs are in the balance William--

I'm hesitant to promote their extinction; however local.

You have heard, I believe, that our world's amphibian population hangs in the cruel balance of mysterious forces that are wiping out whole species, as we speak.

I have learned that Monsanto's Round Up is a contributor to killing off both tadpoles and frogs in gross quantities when sprayed for weed control.

Changing the behavior of feral cats is impossible without a major fear deterrent.

Cats will avoid using habitual sites when confronted by a larger, fearsome enemy's scent. Shake-a-Way granules capture pheromone scents which will cause cats to stay away.  Use these granules in sites frequented by these cats.  You can purchase this item from the website, www. critter-repellent.com/cat-deterrent.php

I hope I've been of service; let me know.

Best wishes


George Manning


Consulting Entomologist


george@pestproblemssolved.com


Pest Control Chicago


Exterminator Chicago


 

Expanded Questions:

i have a eight week old gray squirrel. she has mange mites. do you know what to get to cure her?


Answer:

Mange mites can be addressed by treating eruptions with dabs of kerosene or and then applying tea tree oil.  At eight weeks old, the kerosene might be too strong for the tender skin. Teatree oil by itself will be sufficient.  In addition, for such a young animal, you can follow with olive oil, which would probably work by itself.



Mange mites lay their eggs on the skin surface.  The young hatchlings burrow into the skin and complete their development there.  Skin erupts, and the newly developed adults repeat the process.  These creatures die when oil is applied to the wounds.

For further information, you can Google Mange or Scabies.



Tracy, I appreciate your inquiry. Let me add an additional caution:

Squirrels imprint as a group of 6 to 8 members, as an average.  They do not permit strangers to join them. Your squirrel will not be successful when released to the wild.  Either you adopt the animal for life or you find an animal shelter which will introduce this youngster to other young captive squirrels, which can all be released to the wild as a group.



Best wishes Tracy,



George Manning


Consulting Entomologist

Pest Control Chicago

American Pest Solutions

 

Moles and above ground pool


I have an above ground pool and moles.  I treated the yard for grubs, etc...in hopes no food, no moles.  Wrong, they went under the pool and built their burrows or whatever they have and it caused several areas to literally cave in, destroying my lining!  How can I prevent them from accessing under the pool?  THANK YOU!!!
 


Moles can be baited.  One must locate the spot where moles push up the earth to clean out their loose dirt. Place bait in the active surface tunnels, making certain that there is no loosened earth.

I have included information which I believe can be helpful to you.

Talpirid is a useful poison, not to labor intensive.

Best wishes


George Manning


Consulting Entomologist

george@pestproblemssolved.com


Pest Control Chicago


Exterminator Chicago

 

Expanded Question:

I recently found out that a rat has made a home inside my dryer. I peared into the exhaust duct and the rat droppings trailed into the bowels of my dryer. Is there any way to safely clean the dryer? Is it destroyed? Waht are the risks of contracting the Hanta virus?



Please help


Answer:

Rats in your drier can be of concern regarding the virus known as Hantavirus.  Western States have reported this condition.  I am not aware of any such reportings in Mid-West or Eastern states.  Of that concern, please call CDC at 877-539-4344, or e-mail to http://cdc.gov/ncidod/hanta/hps/index.htm in order to relieve yourself of that concern.



Certainly, a concern could be managed by using a hypochlorite solution sprayed over all contaminated surfaces of the drier.  in any event, exposure to rat urine or dried droppings should be handled in this way.  use rubber gloves and a respiratory filter mask while cleaning.

Now back to the rat.  Check your vent, and any interior voids that could have allowed rats to access the duct leading to the building's exterior.  Should rats be present below the floor, within walls, etc.,  baiting them would be called for.  It might be advisable to contact a professional.



Best wishes Joscelin,

George Manning


Consulting Entomologist

Pest Control Chicago

American Pest Solutions

 

ridding jackrabbits


All repellants are useless; poisoning is not acceptable here;
rabbit traps dont work; fencing is not possible; my question is:  Can a homeowner hire a legit/licensed "pest control/exterminator" to come solve the problem?  eg., fumigate their home in the bushes like they do for houses with termites etc.   I see ads galore where the "pest pro's" rid anything you need ridded from A-Z,  -except-  rabbits!?
are they some sacred breed, on an endangered list or something? and if so (can hire a qualified company) HOW DO YOU FIND ONE!?  thanx!   bob 
 


You are saying that jackrabbits are protected I presume.  They are not game animals in most states and: therefore, not protected.  There are several states that protect snowshoe hares, but I'm not aware of protection against either the black tail or white tail Jack.

You say fencing doesn't work. Repellents are "out to lunch?  What say target practice?

Here is my suggestion:

Buy a "PERIMETER DOG FENCE" which works with a soft comfort collar for your dogs.  Dogs will not cross over the buried line, although buried.  You might want to place some wire flags over the buried line so that you won't cut the line with mowing equipment or other garden equipment.  Place a fence around the gardens that will keep out the dogs.  Jacks like to visit at night.  The dogs will meet them within their designated territory.  Soon there will be no rabbits visiting you.

What do you think?---Good idea?--- It will work!

Best wishes 


George Manning


Consulting Entomologist


george@pestproblemssolved.com

Pest Control Chicago


Exterminator Chicago

 

Expanded Question:

We have found small hard brown bits in the draw where we keep our knives an forks. At first we thought it was something that had fallen in the draw (like pips).  We cleared it up, however it keeps reappearing.  We can not see why any pest would be drawn there as there is no food. What do you think it could be?  We can not see how it would get in.


Answer:

Small brown excrement may come from mice even though you have no food there.  Not knowing where you reside, I have no clue as to what species of rodent is leaving droppings.



There are some large roaches that leave fairly large dropping also.



You can mail this scat to me at 9138 S. Baltimore, Chicago, IL 60617.  I will be able to I.D. the creature by viewing this evidence.  



Thanks for your inquiry Andy,

Regards,



George Manning


Consulting Entomologist

Pest Control Chicago

American Pest Solutions

 

Expanded Question:

We have many, many holes all over our property.  The ground is fairly sandy. We are in Camden County, NJ near the Atlantic County line.  The holes are straight down.  We see no evidence of "volcano shaped mounds", or frankly, any mounds at all.  We have garden plants destroyed, but more alarming is the evidence of tree roots being eaten.  We have fruit trees die which are then easily pulled up with few if any roots.  We assumed they were moles, but with what I am reading, I know now we must be wrong.  Any information would be helpful.


Answer:

Below Ground Foraging Vole Type 


Both the Pine and Oregon vole are almost entirely subterranean. They have a network of underground tunnels where they forage for food thus making them hard to detect. They damage trees, shrubs, bulbs, and perennials from below the ground, consuming small roots, girdling large roots, and eating the bark from the base of small trees. Plants severed from the roots make it possible to easily pull the top of the plant out of the soil. By the time you notice weak, unhealthy plants, the damage is already extensive. Plants not killed outright may be invaded by diseases or die from water stress during periods of drought. 
 


Look for signs of stress in your ornamental plantings. Search and feel for underground tunnels around the base of the stressed shrubs that may reveal vole activity. You may even probe your finger into the ground to locate the underground tunnels. 

 


If you detect tunneling, then set up a test in the area with the Apple Sign Test to confirm activity. 



Many times moles are blamed for this damage because voles can use mole tunnels to reach plant roots and bulbs. (Moles feed on earthworms and the grubs in the lawn, not roots. Their tunneling activity raises the soil into ridges). See www.MolePro.com if you have moles.

Look for their presence by locating their circular burrow entrances not more than 1" - 1 ½" in size such as this one located in a landscaped garden mulched with hardwood mulch. 

 


You can also look for their presence by lifting mulch to reveal long narrow trenches or runways that are serpentine, and that wind around obstructions. Notice the vole pathway trench and entrance hole located under this pine straw mulch. A burrow system may house many voles. Their tunnel system makes the soil feel soft and spongy under foot.  

Pine vole families live in territories as small as 40' across. 



Pine voles like to make tunnels or runs along house foundations, stone walls, and among perennials and groundcovers. They are also attracted to fallen birdseed from feeders.

This article is credited to  VOLE CONTROL, Inc. 


The Vole Control Bait Station System was invented and developed by Marshall H. Warren, owner of Landscape Creations, Inc. Marshall's interest in voles began when his customers had problems with them in the landscape. He addressed the problem and offered solutions in an article written for a newsletter to clients. When a web-site was created to promote Landscape Creations, helpful articles from past newsletters were placed on the site. One such article dealing with voles in the landscape, received quite a bit of attention as people searched online for solutions to their vole problems. Many calls came in from all over the country with inquiries as to where to find the Rozol bait mentioned in the article. Many of the callers had hundreds of dollars of plant material at stake and were desperate for a solution.


Knowing that even with the much sought after Rozol bait, the current methods of application were inadequate, Marshall was inspired to come up with a better system. Through research and study on voles, experimentation is his own yard, and later, product testing in the yards of landscape clients, The Vole Control Bait Station System was born. Now, as of May 2004, Vole Control, Inc., headed by Marshall Warren as President, is sharing the patent-pending Vole Control Bait Station System with the general public. Vole Control, Inc. is committed to providing customers with all the information, support and supplies needed to achieve "Vole Control" and empower customers to conquer their vole problem! 



About Marshall H. Warren 


Marshall Warren grew up in a farming community located in southeast North Carolina where his parents passed on a love of horticulture. His father, a teacher of horticulture, started a nursery business when Marshall was in his early teens. Marshall worked in the nursery, alongside his parents, and did small landscape jobs until he left for college at North Carolina State University in Raleigh. He returned home each summer to help in the growing family business. 


Marshall majored in Landscape Horticulture at NCSU, receiving his BS degree in May of 1985. After graduating, he married his college sweetheart in July of 1985 and began work in Raleigh with another nursery to gain landscaping experience. After several years, he started Landscape Creations by Warren's Greenhouse and Nursery as a division of his parents' business, specializing in residential landscapes.

In 1994, Marshall returned home and began working more closely with his parents in the nursery business. Eventually, due to his father's declining health, the difficult decision was made to close the nursery and Marshall started Landscape Creations, Inc. 



Marshall and his wife, Dana, have two children, a 12-year-old daughter, Lindsey, and a very rambunctious 4-year-old son named Cole.

He is actively involved in his church where he is currently an inactive deacon and teaches the Royal Ambassadors (a boys group ages 7-13). God, family, and integrity in business are important to Marshall. 



Landscape Creations has an excellent reputation with homeowners from the Raleigh/Cary area to Fayetteville, North Carolina. Word of mouth by satisfied customers has always been Landscape Creations' most successful form of advertisement.

After several years of development, Marshall and his family are excited to finally share The Vole Control Bait Station System with the public through Vole Control, Inc.



This is such a specialty.  I felt that you would be better served by reading from a master in this narrow specialty.  You now, should have the resources to go to war with this pest species.

If you have further questions, I would be able to help.

I always appreciate a rating response for my consultations if you feel well served.



Good Luck Helen,



George Manning


Consulting Entomologist

American Pest Solutions

Pest Control Chicago

 

Expanded Question:

We have many, many holes all over our property.  The ground is fairly sandy. We are in Camden County, NJ near the Atlantic County line.  The holes are straight down.  We see no evidence of "volcano shaped mounds", or frankly, any mounds at all.  We have garden plants destroyed, but more alarming is the evidence of tree roots being eaten.  We have fruit trees die which are then easily pulled up with few if any roots.  We assumed they were moles, but with what I am reading, I know now we must be wrong.  Any information would be helpful.


Answer:

Below Ground Foraging Vole Type 


Both the Pine and Oregon vole are almost entirely subterranean. They have a network of underground tunnels where they forage for food thus making them hard to detect. They damage trees, shrubs, bulbs, and perennials from below the ground, consuming small roots, girdling large roots, and eating the bark from the base of small trees. Plants severed from the roots make it possible to easily pull the top of the plant out of the soil. By the time you notice weak, unhealthy plants, the damage is already extensive. Plants not killed outright may be invaded by diseases or die from water stress during periods of drought. 
 


Look for signs of stress in your ornamental plantings. Search and feel for underground tunnels around the base of the stressed shrubs that may reveal vole activity. You may even probe your finger into the ground to locate the underground tunnels. 

 


If you detect tunneling, then set up a test in the area with the Apple Sign Test to confirm activity. 



Many times moles are blamed for this damage because voles can use mole tunnels to reach plant roots and bulbs. (Moles feed on earthworms and the grubs in the lawn, not roots. Their tunneling activity raises the soil into ridges). See www.MolePro.com if you have moles.

Look for their presence by locating their circular burrow entrances not more than 1" - 1 ½" in size such as this one located in a landscaped garden mulched with hardwood mulch. 

 


You can also look for their presence by lifting mulch to reveal long narrow trenches or runways that are serpentine, and that wind around obstructions. Notice the vole pathway trench and entrance hole located under this pine straw mulch. A burrow system may house many voles. Their tunnel system makes the soil feel soft and spongy under foot.  

Pine vole families live in territories as small as 40' across. 



Pine voles like to make tunnels or runs along house foundations, stone walls, and among perennials and groundcovers. They are also attracted to fallen birdseed from feeders.

This article is credited to  VOLE CONTROL, Inc. 


The Vole Control Bait Station System was invented and developed by Marshall H. Warren, owner of Landscape Creations, Inc. Marshall's interest in voles began when his customers had problems with them in the landscape. He addressed the problem and offered solutions in an article written for a newsletter to clients. When a web-site was created to promote Landscape Creations, helpful articles from past newsletters were placed on the site. One such article dealing with voles in the landscape, received quite a bit of attention as people searched online for solutions to their vole problems. Many calls came in from all over the country with inquiries as to where to find the Rozol bait mentioned in the article. Many of the callers had hundreds of dollars of plant material at stake and were desperate for a solution.


Knowing that even with the much sought after Rozol bait, the current methods of application were inadequate, Marshall was inspired to come up with a better system. Through research and study on voles, experimentation is his own yard, and later, product testing in the yards of landscape clients, The Vole Control Bait Station System was born. Now, as of May 2004, Vole Control, Inc., headed by Marshall Warren as President, is sharing the patent-pending Vole Control Bait Station System with the general public. Vole Control, Inc. is committed to providing customers with all the information, support and supplies needed to achieve "Vole Control" and empower customers to conquer their vole problem! 



About Marshall H. Warren 


Marshall Warren grew up in a farming community located in southeast North Carolina where his parents passed on a love of horticulture. His father, a teacher of horticulture, started a nursery business when Marshall was in his early teens. Marshall worked in the nursery, alongside his parents, and did small landscape jobs until he left for college at North Carolina State University in Raleigh. He returned home each summer to help in the growing family business. 


Marshall majored in Landscape Horticulture at NCSU, receiving his BS degree in May of 1985. After graduating, he married his college sweetheart in July of 1985 and began work in Raleigh with another nursery to gain landscaping experience. After several years, he started Landscape Creations by Warren's Greenhouse and Nursery as a division of his parents' business, specializing in residential landscapes.

In 1994, Marshall returned home and began working more closely with his parents in the nursery business. Eventually, due to his father's declining health, the difficult decision was made to close the nursery and Marshall started Landscape Creations, Inc. 



Marshall and his wife, Dana, have two children, a 12-year-old daughter, Lindsey, and a very rambunctious 4-year-old son named Cole.

He is actively involved in his church where he is currently an inactive deacon and teaches the Royal Ambassadors (a boys group ages 7-13). God, family, and integrity in business are important to Marshall. 



Landscape Creations has an excellent reputation with homeowners from the Raleigh/Cary area to Fayetteville, North Carolina. Word of mouth by satisfied customers has always been Landscape Creations' most successful form of advertisement.

After several years of development, Marshall and his family are excited to finally share The Vole Control Bait Station System with the public through Vole Control, Inc.



This is such a specialty.  I felt that you would be better served by reading from a master in this narrow specialty.  You now, should have the resources to go to war with this pest species.

If you have further questions, I would be able to help.

I always appreciate a rating response for my consultations if you feel well served.



Good Luck Helen,



George Manning


Consulting Entomologist

American Pest Solutions

Pest Control Chicago

 

Question I am finding these tiny bugs that are tan in color and oblong in shape. Smaller than an eraser shard. They move pretty slow. I first thought they were coming from my wooden knife block so I cleaned it but they keep coming. So I threw it in the garbage. Still coming. They seem to collect under things on the counter like my coffee maker or dish I keep my sponge in. My counter top is tile. I cannot decipher where they are coming from. It is really freaking me out at this point since it has been going on for weeks. I am a clean freak and keep my counter wiped constantly with windex. HELP! Answer This could be a fungus beetle problem. The beetles are reproducing on the surface of your vent line. This is purely a guess. I would be able to tell you more were I able to examine a specimen. The uniform color and the movement you describe lead me to think this is a species of fungus beetle. Angela, can you send a specimen please. George Manning Consulting Entomologist www.pestproblemssolved.com

 

Expanded Question:

Hi, George!  I read your answer to the person who had the question about the tiny ants in her house.  I too live in a slab house and those pesky little ants are in my kitchen, bathroom, and a few are in one of my bedrooms.



I have ordered the granules and will use them as soon as they arrive.  In the meantime, I'm using Combat ant traps and a liquid bait called Terro.  I think that perhaps the Combat stuff is too potent for the little ants and they are not living long enough to get the stuff back to the colony (lots of dead ants around the traps).  The liquid stuff is like a watering hole for them and seems to be just feeding them.

I really want to leave it alone and let the stuff do its work, but hate all the ants that are crawling all over the counter.  Am I messing up the process by taking a wet towel and wiping up as many of the live ants that I can get at?



Thanks for your help!


Answer:

Hello Lisa--



I understand your impatience with baiting techniques.  The condition would go away for a very few moments only.  The ants have been programmed to feed at sources on your counter.  The fact that you will remove foragers may not dissuade additional ants from arriving on your kitchen counter.  If your intention is to eliminate these visible foragers, then, by all means, spray them with an insecticide.  If you want to temporarily prevent their arrival to this location, then you might use vinegar water, or hydrogen peroxide to wipe out the pheromone trails placed down by former foragers that directed other foragers to the food source. Remember your objective is to kill all of the ants.  You will need these foragers, that are grossing you out, to carry the bait back to the colony.  Although Terro is an excellent bait, it does not serve well to use the ants as carriers of poison.  Granted, the liquid, which is ingested and carried to the colony, kills the young larvae, and the queen, but the poison may destroy the forager too soon to effect destruction of the total colony.  You are seeing this by the number of ants that are returning, only to die around the Terro bait cup. Follow through with my recommendations that you found in previous answers.  If you do not have complete success in two to four weeks, let me know.

Good luck,



George Manning


Consulting Entomologist

American Pest Solutions

 

Expanded Question:

I read your posts about getting rid of small ants.  I've tried everything I could and I'd like to give your granuals a shot but I can't seem to find the web page (www.pestproblemssolved.com) you listed.  Can you give me another web address or if you're no long in operation, a site where I can get the product?  Thanks.


Answer:

www.bugstop.net is my supplier, Steve.



You can reach them requesting the product,Advance Fine Granules.



Stay with me on this one.  I'll talk you through your difficult problem.



Should you like, you can send me a few specimens on white 3 x 5 card, under clear tape, showing different positions--side, upper and reverse positions.  Identification might be useful in this case.



You may have entered our site minus two s(www.pestproblemssolved.com)



Best wishes Steve,

George Manning


Consulting Entomologist

Pest Control Chicago

American Pest Solutions

 

Bee, Wasps

My father just bought a house in South Dakota and we were tearing out a wall and ceiling and we were attacked by bees or wasps not sure which just got out of there and now would like to know how to get rid of them ASAP. We are trying to get the house ready for rental and would like to know how to deal with this and get rid of the bees. There is no one in our area to deal with this issue due to we live in a very small town and are an hour away from any real big cities please help


Answer

First thing is knowing if the occupants are bees and not wasps. If they are wasps, approach their entrance with an insecticide such as ECOpco or pyrethrum. Watch where the wasps are entering their nest first. Be sure to address the spray to the point where the wasps enter and exit. Soak the surface of the opening or if within the wall fill the interior with the aerosol. Wasps will rush out but drop because the insecticide will work rapidly. As you treat the opening, other wasps returning will attempt to enter the nest. They will be carrying food for the young and the queen. They are not programmed to attack when they are field wasps(food gatherers). Once the wasps stop exiting from their nest or stop falling from the opening in the wall, wait for the other wasps to eventually return to the colony. They will die when they contact the poisoned interior. Remove the nest after the wasps are dead so that wasps still developing within the colony cannot mature, and so that the remaining colony does not attract scavengers. If you are concerned about attack, use binoculars to determine if you have bees and not wasps. The bees will have fuzzy bodies, vary in color, and for the most part not show definite ribbons of black around their abdomens. Many wasps such as yellow jackets have definite ribbons of color; black and yellow, or orange. Wasps are naked of hairs. If you determine that you have bees, get someone who has some willingness to work with bees who might be prepared to follow a set of instructions for removing them. The problem with bee removal is the residue of honey, pollen, and developing bees left in their cells, that will attract scavengers of all kinds to feed on the remnants. Many of these can become household pests. The honey itself, absent of the bees that regulate temperature by fanning their wings, will begin to run out of the cells and soak into the walls and floors where it lands. Before I send you a set of instructions on how to remove the bees without destroying them, or even on how to destroy the bees, please let me know what you will learn as a result of the information that you are receiving.

I look forward to hearing from you Tracy,

George Manning Consulting Entomologist

www.pestproblemssolved.com

george@pestproblemssolved.com

Pest Control Chicago


 

Being bitten


My husband and I and our dog are being eaten alive by some unknown bugs.  At first, we thought we had gotten lice from the salon, health club or massage place we go to.  We bought over the counter remedies and bombed out house and laundered all of our clothes as well as treating our mattresses.  That didn't help.  We called an exterminator who said we probably had bird fleas.  There are tons of quail, black birds and pigeons around our house.  He came and sprayed outside and inside.  We re-treated our mattresses and laundered our clothes, vacuumed everyday, washed our floors with vinegar and microwaved our laundered clothes.  We were still itching.  Then, I found a website birdmites.org.  Reading that site scared the heck out of me.  We take baths in vinegar and epson salts.  Afterwards, there are tons of black dots in the tub. Also, when we put oil on our body, little black dots become visible right where it is itching.  Do you have any ideas as to what this plague could be?

For the last few years, we have run into this strange phenomenon with bites that appear continually; usually with people who enjoy and seek outdoor activities.  The following information was copied from a University of Nebraska Entomology Department bulletin, and may help you:

Itch Mites Identified
 in Human Bite Case


Best wishes,


George Manning


Consulting Entomologist

www.pestproblemssolved.com

george@pestproblemssolved.com


Chicago Pest Control and Exterminator


 

Bell Hornets I live in Bedford, Virginia and we live in a wooded area and in the summertime have to deal with the bell hornets. Of course, at night time they are very active and are drawn to lights and fly around like crazy bouncing off the walls and terrify me. My mom lives in a non-wooded area and has a problem with them too. Out near our shed we have a tree that they gather at which is also near the house and where my 3 year old plays. It is at the base of the tree (the root I guess) where it gradually spreads out and enters the ground. It is not hollow as far as I can see as I have watched them and they just stay on the outside. I have used many bottles of hornet killer which does the job but more just re-appear. We have soaked the area with many kinds of spray, we have soaked it with gasoline and even burned it but nothing seems to stop them. My lab likes to chase and catch them and I'm worried about my son getting stung. And of course we use our shed alot and I'm also afraid of the fact that our lawn mower goes in and out alot and may disturb them and really make them mad. Any ideas?????? I would greatly appreciate it? You have stumped me with the species known as Bell Wasps. I have searched through my references and have not located that species, and I am not familiar with it. There are probably more than 5000 known species of hornets and wasps. Many are social insects in that they live together in a colony, which has a single queen. At the end of the season males and females are produced. they mate, and the queens find shelter below leaves, in voids, etc., where they overwinter, only to start new colonies in the spring, but never occupying the nest of the year before, which died out in late Fall. What you describe sounds like solitary wasps that locate in your wooded area. they may be digger wasps that enjoy a relationship with the type of soil that surrounds the tree. There may be a sap running from the tree that you describe, which is attracting the wasps to collect the fluid for their colony or isolated nesting area if they are solitary specie. It would be difficult to destroy wasps that are landing on surfaces repeatedly for the sake of scraping wood to prepare their paper pulp material for nest construction. They may die later from the residual killing effect of the wood scrapings that they take with them. Being in an area where various species are active, and not locating their nesting locations, would make it difficult for you to achieve elimination. Wasps will not sting when out collecting material, sweet fluids, or scraps of garbage or insect life, unless they are physically contacted by someone. They are extremely beneficial for the most part because they capture unwanted insect and other invertebrate life, collected to feed their young. I, even, discourage you from spraying large amounts of insecticides, since you may disturb the natural ecosystem in a naturally wooded area. If you must spray, use a product known as Sevin, and apply this to the locations frequented by wasps. If your State Entomologist has literature on the Bell Hornet, please let me know. The Virginia Polytechnical Institute has a fine Entomology Department that may be able to help you. Let me know. Best wishes to you Jessica, George Manning consulting Entomologist www.pestproblemssolved.com Pest Control Chicago

 

Mites (Bird)

Hello,

You wrote to a reader "should you use apple cider vinegar and olive oil rubbed in you can repel bird mites." What do you mean by "use" apple cider vinegar? Meaning, how so? Thanks


Answer 

When mites invade your skin, olive oil can often destroy them by rubbing in the oil. Apple cider vinegar becomes a soothing agent as well as a repellant. This is only a stop gap. More important is ascertaining the mite species, and addressing the source, and, or presence within the home, or outside on exterior surfaces.

Thanks for your question Rachel,

Regards, George Manning

Consulting Entomologist

Pest Control Chicago

 

 

Bird Mites


My symptoms are like tiny things-invisible crawling over me and tiny pin prick like stings especially at night.


I stayed in a hotel where birds were outside my window and a bird nest nearby.


I believe Bird Mites are biting me after a trip this past week.   How can I get rid of them? How can I lessen my chance of being bit?  Will they be a continued problem?  How long a problem?


Thank You for your response
 

Bird mites will vacate an empty nest and find you the alternate host.  They will not be able to reproduce on you.  If they remain away from an avian source for a week or two, they will expire.  Should you use apple cider vinegar, and olive oil rubbed in, you will both repel and also destroy the unwelcome occupants of your body.

Let me know how you fair.

Best wishes Art,


George Manning


Consulting Entomologist

www.pestproblemssolved.com

Pest Control Chicago

Exterminator Chicago

 

 

bird mites

Hello, I desperately need your professional advice. I first encountered bird mites on 7/8/08. It all started with a bird nest on our back porch roof. We had noticed the bird nest with some baby birds for a few weeks prior to that, but we did not think much of it and did not do anything about it. Then on July 8th, our kids (4yr old, 3 yr old) found the baby birds on the ground (they fell from the nest, one already dead and three still barely alive). To save them, we decided to put them back to their nest. That's when I noticed bird mites all around the nest. There were hundreds of these tiny black dots arond the nest all along the back porch roof. When I looked at my arm, they were already on me! I was also outside with barefoot. Our girls friend as a matter of fact came inside the house holding one of the baby birds in her hands, asking for help. Afterwards, we washed our hands with soap and I did not think much of it about those tiny black dots (I still did not know what those were at that time). A few hours later, I was breastfeeding my 4months old baby, and my stomach was itching. I placed a finger at the exact spot where it was itching and found one tiny black dot that we saw around the nest earlier. Next morning, we found all the baby birds fell from the nest again and this time al were dead. But we did not remove the dead birds until that night. I think that's when the bird mites got the opportunity to invade into our house. Soon I started to feel crawling sensation on my legs, but could not find anything. Now curious, I got on the internet and searched under "tiny bugs around bird nest" and that's how I found out that we now had bird mites problem. We were going on a vacation from July 12-16th, so on the day we were leaving the house, we powdered mixture of DE and boric acid on carpet all throughout the house. When we returned on the 16th, we called professonal carpet cleaner and got the whole carpet steam cleaned. That did not help. I have been doing extensive research on internet. Have you seen "birdmites.org"? According to several sites, bird mites can live off on human blood and even without any food, some of them can live for years. Also check out "cedarcide.com". This man named Dr. Ben Oldag was asked by US Army to create something to help our troops in Mid West with pest problem there and "Best Yet" was made. It supposedly kill all kinds of insects and pests instantly, including mites and fleas. I talked to their staffs several times on the phone and e-mailed regarding mite control, and found out that they are airborne and very difficult to control. With their advice, I fogged our house 4 times already and sprayed the whole yard (outside-grass, walls of the house, driveway, palyground set, etc) with their products. I have been spraying myself with it, too. Well, it has been 5 weeks since 7/8/08, and we still have mites all over our house. I forgot to mention earlier that mites are in our car and when we were on vacation, they were with us. Of course, I fogged our car, too. I am not crazy, I do not have any psychological/psychiatric problem. I feel the crawling and biting all over me. My husband is not bothered by this as much, but last night he was scratching himself more than usual and he said he could feel the crawling, too. My girls complain a lot that they itch and get mosquito-looking bumps and also cluster of tiny bumps on them (arms, legs, chest, back, face and neck) and we do not have mosquitoes (at least I don't see them). At the beginning, the crawling sensations were mainly on my lower extremities, but now I feel them in my ear, nose, fingers/hands.....everywhere! If bird mites cannot survive without meal from birds for a few weeks, why am I still feeling them even stronger? I also learned that each mite can lay 500 eggs in their lifetime, so even if we kill the adult mites, those 500 eggs will eventually become adult and they just keep multiply in number? I am so irritable all the time because the crawling sensation drives me crazy and I want my old life back. There seems to be anyone who totally understand about mite control or there is none. Staffs at Cedarcide told me they get phone calls from CDC everyday to direct people with bird mite problem because DCD does not have any answer. I hope you can help us. Please, how can I get rid of these bird mites? Your response will be greatly appreciated. Hello Ray, A questioner, who has read your question , wishes to contact you. I am enclosing her address. I'll tell her that I have reached you. You may want to contact her. Let me know how things are now.

Regards,
George Manning

Consulting Entomologist

Pest Control Chicago

Chicago Exterminator

 

I live between a pond and a sewer pond kept well cleaned and mowed and sprayed frequently.  I have small hovering insects that have taken over my yard, kids play area and are all over my house on windows screens and doors they don't seem to bite but are very aggravating.

From Can't go outside


These are bloodworm adults.  I will enclose a recent answer to this probable pest issue as follows:



Answer


Chironomidae, a family of non-biting midges includes the blood worms and their adult fly stage.  This is the condition that you have described so well.



George Manning


American Pest Solutions

Chicago Pest Control

 

 

Lucy


Book Mites


Hi, I own a bookshop in Dartmouth, Devon, and have a customer whose personal book collection is infested with book mites.  He is at his wits end as they are slowly destroying his books and he does not know how to deal with them without damaging the books himself.  Do you know anything about these creatures and can you give me some advice to pass on to him?  I confess this is not something I have heard of before, but would like to try and help him.  Thank you in advance for any advice you can give.
 


Answer: Dear Lucy--

There are no creatures known as book mites.  There are, however, insects commonly known as book lice.  These creatures are also known as psocids, pronounced like “sowsids”; Light brown to yellowish and tiny like young termites in size.

They are usually not found in great numbers and do not become a threat to stored books.  When conditions are ideal, moisture is high enough to provide mold, these soft bodied wingless insects can present a problem.  Their primary target is the mold, but they will eat the starchy product created by mold growing on the paper.  When numerous, they will eat the glazing on the surface of book paper too.  They may also become interested in the glue and binding material holding the right degree of moisture, around 50% to 60% humidity.

Placing the books in a heated, non-moist room can eliminate these creatures without resorting to pesticide

George Manning

Consulting Entomologist

American Pest Solutions

 

 

Booklice

Question


Hello I have had these pets for nearly 6 weeks and nothing seems to work, I think they are booklice. They are very very small white 'crawling dots' I have seen a couple of bigger brownish ones also. I have thrown all my books away but they are crawling on nearly everything I own. I have a 5 month old baby so am in a panic. Would it be possible to know:


1. If I air things outside (I have heard this kills them and their eggs) how long do I have to do it as hasnt seemed to work so far.


2. I have been doing spray treatments every 3 weeks (is that their life cycle?) But I cant spray everything and think im missing lots when I do.


3. I cant spray or even air my memory boxes (cards etc) what can I do with these? I cant bear to throw them away.


4. I have bought 2 de-humidifyers as I have heard they cant live in dry environments, how long will they take to work?


5. I open all windows every morning as it is cold outside now, will this help?


Sorry there are lots of questions, I just feel like im in a losing battle here.

Thank you in advance

Kelly


Answer

Booklice or psocids are members of the family of tiny arthropods classified as psocidae.

Your efforts have merit; however, if you can place contents within a chamber that will remain between 105 to 110 degrees Fahrenheit, that will do the trick.

Problem is that these creatures reproduce upon starches such as dryrotted wood, decayed fungi, and other semi-dry moldy surfaces.  They can remain indefinately within a book's binding and glazed pages.

Additionally, the dehumidifier is good for the long term, but I'd also treat with a borate such as boric acid or disodium octaborate tetrahydrate, which is a borate salt completely soluble in water.  A spray solution upon window sills and other material accumulating microscopic flora, decomposing organic matter, and dry rot will do the job.  Also using either the boric acid or borate salt over areas that harbor an overflow of these critters will augment your elimination task.

Please get back to me if you require additional help Kelly.

Best wishes,

George Manning


Consulting Entomologist


www.pestproblemssolved.com

 

 

bore bugs/worms?


I have firewood on 2 ricks(not touching the ground)that were split Jan. and Feb. "08" that have a sandy looking residue on the ground below the firewood. We use a wood burning stove to heat our house. We live in Wichita, KS. Is there anything we can use to stop the critters from eating all our wood?  Thank you for your time.
 

When you use firewood from an unknown source, you are subject to receiving an infestation of wood borers that have not completed their life cycle.  Many of these borers have two and three year life cycles.  The frass that is showing up can come from below the bark or with other borers, from the pith.

A good way to eliminate this condition is to place the logs in a containment area where you can heat the space to a sustained temperature of 120 degrees for 72 hours.  Such a system can be fabricated with a thermostat that shuts off at the appropriate temperature and turns on when the temperature signals that temperature demand.

The treatment with insecticides will not be satisfactory in the case that you are presenting to me; however, the heat treatment will render the wood free of any pests.

I hope that I have been helpful---use your creative juices to accomplish this objective.  Since you are using wood all the time, I trust that you will build a permanent treatment center.


Best wishes


George Manning


Consulting Entomologist


george@pestproblemssolved.com


Pest Control Chicago


Exterminator Chicago

 

Hillary


Boring Insects in Woodpile


I live in SoCal and have a woodpile a few feet from house that appears to having boring insects. "Sawdust" has appeared under the bark in many pieces of wood (in fact, on some pieces, almost an inch of wood under the bark has been turned into sawdust) and I can see bored holes in the wood. Last summer, I saw some large quantities of yellowish/brownish/reddish sticky ooze in some places on the wood (didn't look like sap). I'm not sure if this is related. I can't find any evidence that the pests are still here. Can you help identify this pest?
 

Hello Hilary:

The combined clues that you provide, the oozing sap and the exit holes could point to a long horn beetle infestation.  This could occur when trees are cut to log lengths and stored before all the beetles can emerge.  Their holes left from their exit could allow freshly cut timber to have sap running from these holes.  At the current time, the sap has dried up but beetles may still be emerging since their life cycles may vary from one to three years.

In addition. other beetles could attack seasoned wood and their exit points would be holes in the wood.  From what you describe, I'd stick with the long horn beetle possibility. These beetles will not reinfest this cut wood.

Google long horn beetle for detailed information.

American Pest Solutions
Pest Control Chicago

 

bug bites

Question
My father has been experiencing pinprick bites for approximate. 3wks, but their is nothing visible to the eye. Very rarely he will get a red dot but no itching. The attacks were worse before he bombed and sprayed his house with various insect products, unfortunately they have not cured his ailment. Trying to recap what, when, and why he was at our cabin reroofing and there were bats. I do not know if that may be a link to something? Trying to research on our own we have found bird mites to sound similar-except for the itching, but this solution calls for DEET which he is allergic to. What do you think?


Answer
It is possible to have contacted batbugs and even mites, when working on a roof. It is not an absolute consequence. Bats do carry a bug that looks almost like a bedbug, and can transfer to humans. Likewise, there are mites that live on bats, and will sometimes find their way to humans, but this is not a common occurrence.

Bird mites will not be able to live on a human. They can attack and feed; however, they will not reproduce on other than an avian species so there presence will be short lived, although most annoying without taking preventive steps to clear the domicile of them. Such mites, both Northern Fowl mite, and possibly Chicken mites, will enter homes after bird nests have been vacated.

You may already have visited a dermatologist; if not, I suggest that you ask your dad to make an appointment. Sudden skin eruptions may be a symptom of some other origin than invertebrate ectoparasite contact.

I wish I could be more helpful,Heidi,

Best wishes to you and dad,

George Manning
Consulting Entomologist
www.pestproblemssolved.com

 

CARPENTER BEES


Hi George, I have looked on the Internet and all the home improvement stores around me here, and cant find anything that looks like a good solution, and not a band aid. So George I hope you can give me a solution. George I just bought a tool shed for myself that has cedar plank board siding on it and it is stained and somekind of silicone on it. I love it, but I see it is now starting to attract carpenter bees. I would like to find somekind of a clear I could spray on it or something I can hang from it that keeps away the carpenter bees in someway. All thoughts would be greatly appreciated George. Thanks
 


Various specie of Carpenter bees will be attracted to your location early in the season.  You can purchase a small hand duster with a tube extension, we call it Centro Bulb.  Fill 1/2 to three quarters full and dust the interior of the holes.  A bee or bees will fall out, fly, and eventually die.  Use DeltaDust, or even boric acid dust.  You can then stuff the holes with tissue paper.  When all is quiet,  you can replace the tissue with a wood caulk.

These bees will re-use old holes, and make new ones in subsequent years.  It behooves you to destroy all thes creatures so that their homing instincts will not bring progeny back year after year.

Your local pest supplier can take care of this order, or contact our's linked to our website, pestproblemssolved.com.

Best wishes


George Manning


Consulting Entomologist


george@pestproblemssolved.com


Pest Control Chicago


Exterminator Chicago

 

Hello George, my question I live in So. Ca. and I was called to see these tiny insects invading peoples homes. There is a field adjacent to there homes. This field is plowed annually. These small tiny insects AR crawling on top of the recently plowed soil and on the wall and backyard of these residents. They are about 1/32 to 1/16 long. They have a rounded body like a aphid. They have large eyes on the side of the head and long antennae. They also look like a true bug but no x shape on the back. half the body is brown (upper part) and the lower part is spotted yellow with one black spot on the back of the abdomen. When I look down on the insect it looks like I looking down from a plane at the freeway. They are very fast and seem to fly if I disturb them. I hope that gives you enough info Your clients are experiencing the unearthing of a massive false chinchbug infestation. The entire life cycle has been unearthed by the plowing. The acceleration of the bugs displacement has sent them everywhere. These are true bugs as you aptly described. Levels like this phenomenon are rare, but when they occur without preliminary control measures to the fields, they get out of hand. Please contact the Santa Barbara Agricultural Commissioners office, William Gillette, commissioner/director. That office can supply you with detailed measures to proceed. If for some reason, you do not find sufficient help, please get back to me. I'd like you to keep me informed on this one. You are at the epicenter, and I am not. I'm fully interested in , as Paul Harvey states,"The rest of the story". Best wishes Gerard Van Rossum, George Manning Consulting Entomologist george@pestproblemssolved.com Pest Control Chicago

 

Expanded Question:

Two years ago they showed up. Last year they were worse - about 100 nests in my lawn.  this year I plan to get rid of them by poisoning their nests at night.  What is the best pesticide to use for this purpose.  With so many nests, cost is a consideration.  Boiling water would work, but with so many, this doesn't seem practical.


Answer:

Hello Gary--

Cicada killers have only one mission in life.  If your home is populated with trees, cicadas have been attracted to your sits more so than with the absence of trees.  In any event, cicadas are developing underground, sustaining themselves on tree roots.  The miracle is that the killers can find the cicadas.



I imagine you have googled up Cicada Killers.  You can see many reports on the life history of these large and harmless solitary wasps.You may have experienced the 17 year Cicada one or two years ago.  The cicada killer crawls down a hole it digs to reach the young cicadas that were birthed after the last cicada emergence and ensuing mating period.  You do not want to waste your time attempting to kill the cicada killers.  They will not sting you even if the try to look you in the face, eye ball to eye ball.  



They will diminish to many less after several seasons.  The annual cicadas are a different species and do not show up annually in such great number, and thus, the cicada killers will reduce their numbers accordingly.

Please do not destroy them at any cost; they are performing a tremendously;by important service.



Contact me if you have follow-up questions.

Best wishes,



George Manning


Consulting Entomologist

American Pest Solutions

Pest Control Chicago

 

Two years ago they showed up. Last year they were worse - about 100 nests in my lawn.  this year I plan to get rid of them by poisoning their nests at night.  What is the best pesticide to use for this purpose.  With so many nests, cost is a consideration.  Boiling water would work, but with so many, this doesn't seem practical.


ANSWER: Hello Gary--

You may have experienced the 17 year Cicada one or two years ago.  The cicada killer crawls down a hole it digs to reach the young cicadas that were birthed after the last cicada emergence and ensuing mating period.  You do not want to waste your time attempting to kill the cicada killers.  They will not sting you even if the try to look you in the face, eye ball to eye ball. 

They will diminish to many less after several seasons.  The annual cicadas are a different species and do not show up annually in such great number, and thus, the cicada killers will reduce their numbers accordingly.

Please do not destroy them at any cost; they are performing a tremendously;by important service.

Contact me if you have follow-up questions.

Best wishes,

George Manning


Consulting Entomologist


---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------


QUESTION: OK.  I'm convinced.  My next thought is to stop cutting the grass for a while when they show up, and keep it WET.  The new ones will nest someplace else.
 
Cicada killers have only one mission in life.  If your home is populated with trees, cicadas have been attracted to your sits more so than with the absence of trees.  In any event, cicadas are developing underground, sustaining themselves on tree roots.  The miracle is that the killers can find the cicadas.

I imagine you have googled up Cicada Killers.  You can see many reports on the life history of these large and harmless solitary wasps.

Best Regards,

George Manning

Good luck,


George Manning


Consulting Entomologist

george@pestproblemssolved.com

www.pestproblemssolved.com


Chicago Pest Control


Chicago Exterminator

 

 

We have had cicadas in our lawn for the past 3 years. Each year we have an increased number. Had them treated professionally the first year. They are ruining the lawn. Is there a treatment we can purchase to kill them ourselves? Thanks. Yes, you can kill them, but they are extremely beneficial and do no harm. You will not get stung. They dig a horse shoe pile of dirt as they dig a hole to bury the cicada that they kill. On that carcass the female lays an egg from which a new wasp will emerge. The dirt is piled up an can be raked back. this process does not continue for the whole season. Right now the annual cicadas are being captured and killed for egg depositing. Should you decide to kill the wasps, a spraying with Sevin is probably the most expedient method of lawn spraying. Thanks for your inquiry. Best wishes, George Manning Consulting Entomologist www.pestproblemssolved.com cicada killers Mr. Manning, I read your response to Gary about not killing the cicada killers, but they are making a mess of our yard! They like our rock/bolder retaining walls next to the house, and have loosened so much soil that we now have patches of yard caving in around the walls! If not killing them, then how do we get them to move somewhere else? Thank You, If you are certain that they are Cicada Killers, and they are the culprets that dig up your area, You can saturate that area with a carbamate known as Sevin. As the dig, they'll be destroyed. Let me know the progress. Best wishes, George Manning Consulting Entomologist www.pestproblemssolved.com Pest Control Chicago

 

Hi,

We came home from a weekend trip and there were flies everywhere in our house, and dozens of baby cockroaches in our bathtub. We hadn't left any dirty dishes or trash in our house, and we seem to have gotten the flies under control. However, I can't seem to get rid of the cockroaches. We've lived here for four years and have never had roaches inside. From online pictures, I think they are oriental cockroaches; we do have them everywhere outside here (CA). They are only in the bathtub but they are there when I wake up in the morning, and although I rinse those ones out, there are more in the evening. I clean the tub out with bleach each time I see them, but I don't know how to keep them from coming back. I have read that they can live in unused pipes, but with four people in the house, there are three showers and one bath being taken each day. I have a toddler, and I don't want to use anything harmful to her. Also we only have the one bathroom, so we can't leave bait or poison out, since we need to use the tub daily. It's been five days now, and I would greatly appreciate any tips you have for getting rid of them.


Answer


Oriental, American, and other sewer loving roaches can enter your home via shower,floor and tub drains.

If you have an overflow vent on your tub, you can place a gel bait such as Maxforce within the vent.  this will attract the roaches, or during the time you are not using the tub, bait the drain.

If you have an intercepter sewer called a catch basin, you may find adult and various stages of development of these roaches.  Sometimes extreme rainfall will drive roaches into your house sewer lines.  The same can be true for extreme dry spells when lines are so dry that roaches access the home lines.

Flushing out the drains with a powder known as Drione may be the ticket since the roaches are so close to the tub's surface.

Contact me again if help is still needed.

Best wishes,


George Manning


Consulting Entomologist


george@pestproblemssolved.com

www.pestproblemssolved.com

Chicago Pest Control


Chicago Exterminstor

 

Hi,

We came home from a weekend trip and there were flies everywhere in our house, and dozens of baby cockroaches in our bathtub. We hadn't left any dirty dishes or trash in our house, and we seem to have gotten the flies under control. However, I can't seem to get rid of the cockroaches. We've lived here for four years and have never had roaches inside. From online pictures, I think they are oriental cockroaches; we do have them everywhere outside here (CA). They are only in the bathtub but they are there when I wake up in the morning, and although I rinse those ones out, there are more in the evening. I clean the tub out with bleach each time I see them, but I don't know how to keep them from coming back. I have read that they can live in unused pipes, but with four people in the house, there are three showers and one bath being taken each day. I have a toddler, and I don't want to use anything harmful to her. Also we only have the one bathroom, so we can't leave bait or poison out, since we need to use the tub daily. It's been five days now, and I would greatly appreciate any tips you have for getting rid of them.

Answer


Oriental, American, and other sewer loving roaches can enter your home via shower,floor and tub drains.

If you have an overflow vent on your tub, you can place a gel bait such as Maxforce within the vent.  this will attract the roaches, or during the time you are not using the tub, bait the drain.

If you have an intercepter sewer called a catch basin, you may find adult and various stages of development of these roaches.  Sometimes extreme rainfall will drive roaches into your house sewer lines.  The same can be true for extreme dry spells when lines are so dry that roaches access the home lines.

Flushing out the drains with a powder known as Drione may be the ticket since the roaches are so close to the tub's surface.

Contact me again if help is still needed.

Best wishes,


George Manning


Consulting Entomologist


george@pestproblemssolved.com

www.pestproblemssolved.com

Chicago Pest Control


Chicago Exterminstor

 

crickets in basement keep coming back

Question


How would I stop the crickets from coming back in the basement? I have killed about 20 or more with some Raid Ant & Insect spray and I came back a few days later and I hear more of the crickets. I am renting this house and the landlord is aware of the problems and I am not sure how I can stop the problems, because my wife is scared of any thing that move and she and I have to come in the basement to do laundry. Would somebody help me with this problems?



Answer
Crickets are voracious feeders.  A cricket bait will do the job. One such bait registered for this task of Cricket elimination is Maxforce FG, Baygon Bait.  You can look up baits on the Internet.

Spraying may not reach the entire cricket infestation at once.  Baits will have a greater effect on the existing population because they will all come to the baiting sites.  Place baits in the damp areas of the basement.  They prefer such locations over a dry area of the basement. 

You might ask the landlord if you can use a dehumidifier.  This can reduce the niche factor that promotes cricket propagation.  Seek to find out if you can reduce the moisture in the basement by other means if possible.

I hope I have been helpful delnormorrow,

George Manning


Consulting Entomologist


www.pestproblemssolved.com

 

Sara


Drain Bugs


I have had drain bugs in my home for a year and a half and I am desperately looking to get rid of them. Can you help me ?


Thank you


Hello Sara--

You refer to drain bugs which only tells me that there is a chronic insect condition.

I'm asking the following questions so that I might have a better idea of what is present at the sink:
  

  • 1)Do you have a garbage disposal?
  
  • 2)Does this problem also appear in the bathroom sinks?
 
  • 3)Do these creatures fly?
  
  • 4)Do they land on walls as well as in the sink?

Google the following genera of insects: Psychodidae, Phoridae,Drosophilidae, and Staphylinoidae.  These are, in respective order, known as sand(Moth)flies, fungus gnats, and fungus beetles.

These conditions can be cleared up. Using a fungicide known as DF 5000 which can be purchased at the larger hardware stores and also from a pesticide supplier. Cleaning the garbage disposal should be a prerequisite.

You may also be seeing young cockroaches that are too young to seek solid food and are attracted to moisture and soft food residue in the sink. Please let me know what you have identified.  Let me know if I've helped you.

American Pest Solutions

Pest Control Chicago

 

Question


I've recently discovered drain fly larvae in my shower stall. My house is brand new construction, less than 6 months old. My shower is not tiled, it has a fiberglass surround. I was cleaning the shower (with a bleach based cleaner) when the larvae first appeared. My problem is that the larvae do not seem to be coming from the drain, they seem to be coming from under the calking where the bottom of the metal shower door frame meets the fiberglass surround. The problem is still new as I haven't seen many flies (about two or three), just a lot of the black larvae. What can I do to get rid of these since pouring anything down or cleaning out my drain seemingly won't solve the issue. Thanks!


Answer


Just to be certain that you are seeing "drain fly" larvae let us review the appearance of the adults(psychodids).  The flies may be black, hairy, and with wings folded tent-like over the body in what would make the top view triangular, the the head being the apex of the triangle.

With this said, we must now consider what could have allowed the larvae to seek sanctuary below the rubber caulking of the shower door.  This is quite a distance for larvae to travel; I'll suggest several possibilities as follows:

1) The shower drains slowly; often fills to the brim of the shower base, making it easy for
 larvae to seek an ideal surface food site below the rubber caulking.

2) Flies consider the moisture below the rubber caulking to supply enough food material for larval development.

Since the family psychododae, having many species, for the most part finds organic debris, which is high in moisture ideal for breeding, particularly slime mold, your psychodid species could have arrived via the municipal sewer connection to the home.  Once in your private line, reproduction will be permanent unless changes are forthcoming.

Use of a different material for caulking such as epoxy could be the answer to the elimination of this breeding location.  Simply keeping the shower door open after a shower, the bathroom fan running for a time, could create an unattractive location for fly propagation.

Better still, use a slime retardant such as DF-5000 or another known as Slime Gel in the drain and other drains and sink and tub drains.  If you have difficulty locating these products, you might want to seek a company that is linked to our website posted below.  If your home has an ejector pumping system; place a plastic strip known as ProZap Insect Guard in your pump wells and reseal the lids.

I hope to have guided you to a drain(psychodid) free environment Allison.

Best wishes,

George Manning


Consulting entomologist


www.pestproblemssolved.com

 

earwigs...


Hello,
I have a 4 yr old modular on a full concrete basement in central NY. Over the past Winter, a hair line crack developed in the middle of the back basement wall and every time it rains, some water seepage results. About a 1 or 1 1/2 square foot puddle, very small. I am going to seal that soon. On occasion, since last year, I have noticed a few earwigs in the house, mainly around the kids bathroom floor, one on ceiling in hallway and two on the counter in some dirty dishes. I've only seen them a handful of times, but am concerned at how they are getting in or where they are coming from? Any ideas? Thank you.
 


Earwigs will choose places where they are not in contact with direct sun.  For example, under a planter box or large flower pot sitting on concrete could make an ideal breeding location.  Colonization will also take place behind loosening bark of a tree.  Likewise, the crack in the buildings wall could attract them at a point above the flooding level.  There are many other examples, but maybe you get the idea.  Earwigs will travel to and from there niche location so that you will find them travelling at times. 


Answer

If you have a frame home with vinyl siding, the area above the foundation, behind the vinyl can be a breeding as well as an entry point to the home's interior.

Without enumerating further, I imagine that you can kill out the existing earwig problem, as well as reduce the attractive settling areas by affording humid spots as I've described, and others, with better fresh air movement and exposure to daylight.

Pyrethroids are the insecticides of choice.  Many are available at the hardware store or pesticide supplier. 

Inside spraying can be done where earwigs are found as well as around the exterior of the building.

Please contact me again if you have further questions.

Best wishes,


George Manning


Consulting Entomologist

george@pestproblemssolved.com

www.pestproblemssolved.com

Chicago Pest Control


Chicago Exterminator

 

Question
Hello,
I have a 4 yr old modular house in upstate NY. On occasion, I have noticed an earwig or two in my kids bathroom. Their bathroom usually has some urine around the toilet and water on the floor because they aren't careful enough. I try to clean it the best I can. Last night my daughter said there was a bug on the door. It was an earwig. I have had some of them a year ago in this same bathroom because of the wet stuff on the floor. Where do these critters come from and how do I make sure they don't come around? They are very intimidating looking and I don't want them in this house. Thank you.


Answer
Dear Mike---

Maybe the following information can help you. If you require further assistance, please contact me.

There are a number of species of earwig, but the most prevalent is known as European earwig. The males have larger pincers than do females. Being omnivorous, earwigs will feed on a number of plant specie, as well as garbage contents and also invertebrate life, which they capture by holding the unfortunate victim while they devour it.

When found in homes, they have been carried in with a potted plant or heavily barked firewood, for example. Still, these creatures will seek harborage in a moist area behind a building's siding, and from there, may wander into a house. They prefer moist, dark places in cracks and crevices.

Earwigs will lay eggs in the Fall, protect the eggs, and feed the young nymphs during the earliest developmental stages of life. This behavior is maternal until the nymphs have molted several times, afterwards the mother behavior ends, and she may attempt to cannibalize the young.

Control is possible by treating outside areas where earwigs hide; such as below plant pots, sidewalk margins where turf overgrows the concrete, wood piles, compost piles, under siding where moisture accumulates, etc. Using one of the many pyrethroid products available at hardware and pest control suppliers, is a good approach to stopping the insects from getting into the home. Finally, a vacuum cleaner is a good way to capture and destroy these creatures.Spraying cracks and crevices with one of the pyrethroids; permethrin, cypermethrin, deltamethrin, cyfluthrin, or others will do the job by spraying or dusting in cracks and crevices.

Boric acid, and diatomaceous earth can be used as well.

Hope this helps Mike,

George Manning
Consulting Entomologist
www.pestproblemssolved.com

 

few bites at night of my 1yr old baby

Dear George,


I live an apartment and recently my 1 y old baby seemed to get one new bite per night(5 in armpit...1 by ear).  I assumed it was at night since I checked her each morning...however recently noticed it took 8 hours for a mosquito bite to appear.  I worried about possibility of bed bugs so washed all bedding and removed bumpers.  I noticed to larvae type looking 'eggs' between the slats of her crib near where she always puts her head.  They are white/cream and the size of grain of rice.  Later I found similar larvae on a couch cushion and on the edge of my bed.  We have no signs of bed bugs...blood marks, black spots.  I also got bitten along the waistband on my back and near thigh.  My husband got a few bites on waist.  I would think it was an outdoor pest since we play in a wooded area in TN each day...but then I saw the white rice like eggs.  Could these be flea related?  We don't have pets but a dog just moved in above our apt. 

Thanks,


Nancy
 


 

Answer


The white rice-like object may be coincidental.  This would not explain bedbugs or even fleas.  Rather, I imagine that your hunting for a solution has uncovered textile remnants clinging to fabric.  This could have occurred when you removed objects from the dryer and set them on the couch before proceeding with your overall housework.

As to the skin irritation, it sounds as if you are experiencing mites.  Which mites, I don't know from the questions; however, vacated bird nests in vents from bathroom or kitchen, may provide mites that are leaving the vacant nests.  Also, birds that are nesting on the window air conditioner may be a source of these possible mites.

Travelling in the woods, and fields can also be a point of contact with various specie of mites.

Immediate relief, I find, can be the use of tea tree oil over the skin eruptions.  Using olive oil will kill mites that penetrate the skin.  Tea tree oil will do both; help heal, and destroy the mites.

I hope that I have been helpful.  You are always welcome to follow up with additional questions if I have not fully helped you.

Best wishes,


George Manning


Consulting Entomologist


george@pestproblemssolved.com

www.pestproblemssolved.com


Chicago Pest Control


Chicago Exterminator

 

Dear George,


I live in Nevada and have been infested with some type of tiny black bugs, They are through hout my gravel, dirt, etc, and travel over my cool decking around the edge of my pool and eventually end up in the pool. When I look at them up close they appear to look like some type of mite?? I will try to get pictures up later. Can you Please help!


Answer
I have only seen flea beetles moving in mass once.  I saw this and thought to mention it here.  Unless I see a specimen, and according to the description that you send, I am restricted in what I can tell you.
Flea beetles are difficult to kill.  They have no natural predators.  The black flea beetle, Phyllotreta cucumeris, might be the culprit.  They are found in crop lands, also in Sudan grass.  It is possible to migrate from this grass or from crops.  The adult beetle will feed on leaves, and their larvae feed on root systems.


See if the hind legs are larger than the first two pair of legs.  The larger legs are built for jumping.  You are welcome to send a specimen to me at 9138 S. Baltimore, Chicago, Illinois 60617.


Best regards Thelma,

George Manning


Consulting Entomologist

www.pestproblemssolved.com

Chicago Pest Control


Exterminator Chicago

 

Expanded Question:

Hi,
We are having a serious problem with a flea infestation in our house.  We have one cat, but he never goes outside, so we're thinking we probably brought the fleas in on our clothes (we have a few dogs that come in our yard & there is a horse farm behind our house).  When we initially realized we had a problem, I called a pest control company, but before they came to spray, I washed all the bed linens, vacuumed the furniture & carpet, etc.  Two weeks later we were still finding fleas everywhere, so I went through the whole house & removed everything from the floors of the bedrooms & closets, all the toys from under my children's beds, & then got the pest control company to come back and spray again.  It has now been about a week and a half, and, even though it's gotten better, we are still finding fleas.  I wouldn't be so worried if they were just the little tiny black ones, but we are finding the bigger brown ones still too.  I'm about to lose hope that we will ever get rid of these fleas!  Do you have any advice on what our next step should be?  Thank you so much!



Misha

Oh, I forgot to add that my husband has sprayed the yard for fleas too.


Answer:

Most professionals will use an insect growth regulator mixed with the pesticide of choice.  The approach must include spraying from  floor to all walls to a point 2&1/2 feet above the floor.  All furnishings must be treated, and stuffed furniture should be dusted with a pyrethroid such as Deltaguard, through the muslin cloth below the furnishing, in the tufting below the cushions.  As you mentioned, treating all closets including contents is also a necessity.

Let me recommend a non-pesticide addition to the all out internal effort you will be repeating.  At the floor below every window, place a pie pan or like vessel filled to the brim with water that has received two or three drops of dish detergent.  In so doing the surface tension(meniscus) of the water's surface will be broken.  Fleas, when leaping, will not be able to leap off the water surface and will drown.  You will get some idea of the remaining infestation when you see the number of drowned fleas.



Your dogs can bring in fleas continually.  If the exterior problem is not met with a broad spectrum pesticide treatment, your home and its animals can be repeatedly infested.



Maybe you left something out when you last treated the home.  Do you have a crawl space?  did you include the basement and other attached sheds, garages, and underpinnings of this building?



Lastly, where do you live?  Fleas are not abundant in Northerly climates until around the month of June.  Further into warmer climates, repeating generations of fleas will occur.



It is important to know their life cycle.  Eggs are not attached to the animals.  When laid, say 40 to 50 eggs, eggs fall off the dogs or cat and  the larvae hatch out and live on organic debris that they find over the flooring of the area where they emerged.  A complete metamorphosis, they eventually pupate, and remain within the pupal case until ready to emerge as fleas.  Vibration stirs them to pop through their case.  This can happen at once with lots of fleas appearing suddenly.  By using the IGR, the benefit is the fleas cannot mature and will expire as larvae before pupation.



You have mentioned larger brown as opposed to the smaller dark fleas.  I have taken your word for the belief that you are only seeing fleas.



If you wish, you can mail specimens.  There are different flea specie.



It might be useful for me to identify the different individuals you have caught.

Let me hear from you again.



Best wishes,



George Manning


Consulting Entomologist

 

invasion QUESTION: It started when my wife & I started collecting the proper food scraps for our new composter. It was collected in the kitchen, in a covered container. Suddenly there was an invasion of tiny flying bugs ( I call them gnats ). They were soon everywhere, flying around & into our food & drinks. The like the moisture in the sink, a wet sponge, you name it. I've tried 'baiting' with open garbage & then spraying. I've tried denying them sustenance. Everything has failed. No matter how many I kill there are always enough of them to make us miserable. I'm ready to try a nuclear solution! Can you help? Please? ANSWER: Fungus gnats are the likely problem. I am enclosing a bulletin that will take you through the preliminaries. When you have knowledge, then you become helpful to me. I can take you through this if you need my help beyond this offering. Best wishes Tom, George Manning Consulting Entomologist george@pestproblemssolved.com Pest Control Chicago

 

Subject:  Reoccurrence of Roaches

Question:  I have been getting pest treatments from Terminix for a while now, but a couple of months ago, I had some German roaches break out in my townhouse.  The treatments consisted of spraying and a gel that they could eat.  


Anyway, now I don't see may of them but once or twice a month I will see one pop up usually in the kitchen but  sometimes in other places.  I don't know how concerned I should be about this. I read somewhere that if you see one there usually means there are more waiting. However, my Terminix guy made it seem like seeing one every now and again is normal.  I feel like if I see one and then see another one a couple of days or a week later than that means its time to retreat.  I guess I want to know what the significance of one bug is.  
Should I be concerned that there is a lot more or is it just one lone bug?  Also, do you have any suggestions for things I can do seeing as I share a wall with another person and I'm not sure how well she treats for bugs (I don't want them to keep moving from her house to mine).


Crystal

Answer:  Thanks for your questions regarding persistent roach presence.  
Often, when spraying while also baiting roaches, the spray will repel roaches.  The possibility of spraying while baiting in a different area, for example spraying below baited areas, and not above, can work.

In our experience, baits will never kill 100% of a German roach infestation. A 1% survival rate can produce others that will also be unattracted to that particular bait.

Since you have a possible influx from a neighbor's apartment whose plumbing wall is shared by you, roaches can pass between both apartments.  We recommend using a different bait since the first may no longer be effective. Combine flushing voids, cracks and crevices with boric acid which will not repel roaches, with bait.  This will give you an extended kill beyond the present condition.

Best of Success,

George Manning
Entomologist
Pest Control Chicago
American Pest Solutions

 

Giant Mosquitos


Hello.  I live in Laingsburg in Michigan (Northeast of Lansing, so somewhat in the middle of the state).  This year, for the first time ever in my life, I have been encountering very large mosquitos.  The body size, not including the head, is roughly one inch long.  The hind legs that curve upwards when they are biting or resting are striped.  My children and I have not, fortunately, been bitten by one, although our dog has, much to his discomfort.  There don't seem to be too many around, but the size of them is disconcerting.  I do not have any pictures because I smashed the two that were in our house.  Is this a mutation, a new species???  Also, are the larger mosquitos more dangerous than the smaller ones we are used to?  Any help would be much appreciated.  Thank you.
 


Crane flies are often mistaken for mosquitos.  I have copied a University bulletin that can guide you.  If this is not helpful, please send me a specimen so that I can provide you with a proper identification.

Thanks for your inquiry Dottie,

Best wishes,


George Manning


Consulting Entomologist


www.pestproblemssolved.com

george@pestproblemssolved.com

Chicago Pest Control and Exterminator

 

 

Gnat control

Question
Our company recycles aluminum cans...in those cans is residue from the products (soda, beer, etc.) they contained and of course this residue attracts gnats. The problem seems to be the area where these bales of crushed cans are stored prior to being crushed. Buildings close to this area are overrun with gnats, no one can eat, speak, or even breathe without inhaling/ingesting a gnat or two. We periodically spray our shop building (closest building), works for a day or two and then they're back. We are in dire need of a solution. Thanks in advance....

Answer

Place all cans in a heated enclosure that maintains a temperature of 110 degrees for 72 hours for each delivery, or be prepared to use an atomized spraying after each crushed can episode, using the restricted product DDVP(Vapona); readily obtained under a caution label as Prosap Insect Guard strips. The volume treated must coincide with the label recommendations. The strips can last for several months in an enclosed space. One can create a processing room using this possible application. After crushing within the enclosure, all surfaces should be hosed down. An application of one of the pyrethroids can be sprayed over the area after each operation.

Best wishes Mike,

George Manning
Consulting Entomologist
www.pestproblemssolved.com

 

Hi George,


Grasshoppers eat all my flowers (planted mostly in containers) and shrubs.
Is there a natural smell like mothballs, garlic,... that these
pesky animals stay away from?

Answer
 
Try using a product known as Neem oil to repel grasshoppers.  You may also find that a concentrated solution of garlic oil will do the trick.

Let me hear the results of your combat with these creatures.

Best wishes,

George Manning


Consulting Entomologist


www.pestproblemssolved.com

george@pestproblemssolved.com

Chicago Pest Control


Chicago Exterminstor

 

 

gray squirrels


i have a eight week old gray squirrel. she has mange mites. do you know what to get to cure her?
 


Mange mites can be addressed by treating eruptions with dabs of kerosene or and then applying tea tree oil.  At eight weeks old, the kerosene might be too strong for the tender skin. Teatree oil by itself will be sufficient.  In addition, for such a young animal, you can follow with olive oil, which would probably work by itself.

Mange mites lay their eggs on the skin surface.  The young hatchlings burrow into the skin and complete their development there.  Skin erupts, and the newly developed adults repeat the process.  These creatures die when oil is applied to the wounds.

For further information, you can Google Mange or Scabies.

Tracy, I appreciate your inquiry. Let me add an additional caution:

Squirrels imprint as a group of 6 to 8 members, as an average.  They do not permit strangers to join them. Your squirrel will not be successful when released to the wild.  Either you adopt the animal for life or you find an animal shelter which will introduce this youngster to other young captive squirrels, which can all be released to the wild as a group.


Best wishes Tracy,


Best Wishes,


 

George Manning


Consulting Entomologist


george@pestproblemssolved.com

www.pestproblemssolved.com

Chicago Pest Control


Chicago Exterminator

 

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